Orchid bottle seedling cultivation and growth management

Orchid bottle seedling cultivation and growth management

First, the training of bottle seedlings to train plant seedlings is nothing more than the adjustment of temperature and sunlight; the seedlings must undergo natural environment training for seven to ten days before they are bottled. As the general bottle seedlings are stored in an environment where the temperature is about 25 degrees Celsius, and in darker places, if the environmental changes are too large at one time, they may be sunburned or may not be able to adapt to the new cultivation field and be lost. Therefore, when buying bottle seedlings, they should be stored in the next seven to ten days of natural environment training on the bed to be cultivated in the future, and then be bottled and planted. The sunshine required for bottle seedling training is about 30% to 40% of the full sun. Second, after the bottle seedlings are bottled and the training is completed, they can be bottled and cultivated. Open the cap with a long clip, be careful to easily remove the seedlings, do not pull the leaves as much as possible to hurt the plants, no need to clean the seedlings without water, avoid groundwater or wash the seedlings with water with a temperature difference is too large, when the small seedlings out of the bottle Delicate and aseptic, groundwater often contains a large number of bacteria and unknown minerals, pH is often beyond the scope of adaptation of seedlings, easily causing damage; if the use of water temperature too much difference will also affect the future growth of seedlings. Seedlings are removed from the bottle, and no medium can be left in the root. If it is cleaned with water, it can be soaked with 2000 times Hyponex No.1, Peter or Suisse for about a few seconds, then picked up and placed in the newspaper in a cool place. Let it be naturally ventilated, and allow the plants to be planted only after the moisture has completely dried. The company recommends not to clean the seedlings better, do not soak any nutrients, sterile seedlings do not have to do any disinfection measures? Third, the preparation of plastic materials plastic pots or plugs; planting a single pot with a diameter of about 4.5 cm Yes, three or five months later, depending on the situation, replace the larger pot, 6 or 9 centimeter pots; the bottom of the plastic basin must have a drainage hole. Weeds; better use of water plants, because of better water permeability, not easy to corrosion, suitable for orchid root growth. First, wash the plants with tap water, soak them in the disinfectant solution for about one hour, then dry them or use a dewatering machine to completely dehydrate them. Fourth, the bottle seedlings planted with sterile scissors to trim off too long or redundant roots, and then take a handful of water plants and a small seedlings, wrap the roots with water, and then planted into a plastic basin or hole in the plug. The water-grass package part is as low as possible at the growing point, and the amount of water-grass material is used, so that the plant can be erected steadily. The water content is too loose, too tight and difficult to water, and it will hinder the normal growth of the root system. After a plant is grown, the plastic basin should be loaded with a trailer to facilitate handling and neat appearance. After planting, watering should not be done before the plants are dry. Fifth, the basic management of seedlings will be a good seedlings placed in a more ventilated and cool place, placed in the standard greenhouse should be all inside and outside the network to pull on, when seedlings use light about 35% ~ 45%? 5,000 ~ 10,000 lx (950ft-c) About two or three days later, let the plants dry almost completely and then use the spray method to water, and then follow the routine, only about every 7 to 10 days should be filled with water, thoroughly washed and washed off the algae in the basin, reduce Acidity, reduce the occurrence of root rot; simultaneous fertilization, and promote root growth. Phalaenopsis is in the mid-seedling stage after 60 days of bottle production, so the light should be increased to about 50%~60%?15,000 lx (1,400ft-c)? After 180 days, the large seedlings will become mature or flowering, and the light will increase slightly. About 60% ~ 70%? 20,000 lx (1,900ft-c)?, Incidium, Cadillac, Dendrobium, Shulan, and Cymbidium should be increased to 60%~70 after 60 days of bottle release. %, adult or flowering plants require higher light, about 70% to 85%, and even some orchids require about 90% to 100% light to produce good flowers. 6. Humidity Orchids are all plants that prefer higher humidity, and generally require a relative humidity of 50%-85%. 7. Temperature The seedling growth period of the Orchidaceae plant is more suitable for the environment at 23oC ~ 28oC, and the Kolan genera are slightly different after the adult plants. The reason for the failure of breeding orchids is mainly due to the cold flow and frostbite, and the high temperature is easy to produce lesions and losses. 8. Ventilated orchids are rooted plants, habits of clean air; good ventilation facilities will reduce the incidence of leaf rot. Nine, fertilization, leaf-surface fertilization and regular fertilization, avoid using organic fertilizer. Seedlings or grown plants should focus on foliar fertilization, spraying about one or two times a week, and within thirty minutes after watering. Normal fertilization to make up for the lack of foliar fertilization, and take the basin into the law, the general use of magic fertilizer particles, etc. ... .... Hyponex No.1, Pete or Suzi is used for fertilization of common seedlings. Mid-seedling or adult fertilization can increase nitrogen fertilizer. If the flowering plant leaves are fertilized, use high-phosphorus potassium fertilizer. X. Environmental health Orchid plants are also fond of cleanliness. If commercial cultivation is based on economic crops, different families should be planted separately. Besides convenient management, they are less likely to get sick. XI. Pest and Disease Control Greenhouses should be thoroughly disinfected before they are used, and the old greenhouses should be strengthened. Greenhouses should be equipped with screens to prevent insects from invading. Yellow tapeworm paper should be added to the bedside and lime and sulfur should be sprinkled on the outside of the greenhouse to prevent ants and other crawlers from invading. In general, pests in greenhouses can cause bacterial infections. Bottled young seedlings should not share greenhouses with grown plants as much as possible. Externally purchased pots must be sterilized and sterilized, and they should be allowed to enter the greenhouse and grow together with other blue plants. Every two to three weeks, insecticides should be sprayed in and out of the greenhouse to prevent pests from occurring. Each month should be implemented to prevent bacterial infection, spraying a bactericide liquid once to prevent bacterial growth, harm the plant. Found that the infection should be immediately disinfected the entire field, three times or more? Once every other week, it is best to each change the bactericidal agent, increase the bactericidal effect, to avoid the occurrence of bacterial resistance. Found that the disease should be eliminated immediately, or remove infected leaves for testing, to find out the cause as soon as possible. Non-essential personnel are not allowed to enter the cultivation greenhouse; workers entering and leaving the greenhouse may be allowed to clean their carrying equipment and shoes; appliances are not moved to other greenhouses to prevent infection. The knife must be sterilized. The second strain should not be pruned continuously. Before use, it should be sterilized with 5% formalin and 5% sodium hydroxide. Each time it is immersed for about 1-2 minutes to avoid bacterial infection. Regarding pest and disease control, a separate chapter will be introduced in detail and the topic will be discussed.

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